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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 15:37] – 109.129.75.193 | resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:48] – 109.129.58.244 | ||
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Coralie Stalberg, April - May 2012 | Coralie Stalberg, April - May 2012 | ||
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+ | **PRESENTATION** | ||
**“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, | **“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, | ||
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I am further interested to generate contexts for creative re-enactments and playful re-interpretation of those resilient practices in our contemporary context, through workshops bringing together elderly and kids/ | I am further interested to generate contexts for creative re-enactments and playful re-interpretation of those resilient practices in our contemporary context, through workshops bringing together elderly and kids/ | ||
- | ----------------------- | + | |
** | ** | ||
- | Methodology | + | METHODOLOGY |
- | - **History**__Underlined Text__, in a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’) | + | - **History**, |
http:// | http:// | ||
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« Longtemps, les documents écrits ont seuls eu droit au statut d' | « Longtemps, les documents écrits ont seuls eu droit au statut d' | ||
- | **-Anthropology**__Underlined Text__ | + | **-Anthropology**: |
- | + | ** | |
- | °Experimental Ethnography : | + | °Experimental Ethnography** : |
http:// | http:// | ||
- | - Experimental | + | - Experimental |
-Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage. | -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage. | ||
-Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, | -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, | ||
- | + | ** | |
- | °Anthropology of tranmission | + | °Anthropology of Transmission |
Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains. | Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains. | ||
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** | ** | ||
- | ° Anthropology of cloth | + | ° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History |
- | **__Underlined Text__ | + | ** |
« Pour une anthropologie du vêtement » Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme | « Pour une anthropologie du vêtement » Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme | ||
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«Le vêtement est l' | «Le vêtement est l' | ||
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http:// | http:// | ||
- | °My own ‘bricolage’ : **In search of an incarnated practice of anthropology : a Poetical Ethnography inspired by the gestures, tools and strategies of Textile Conservation, | + | °My own ‘bricolage’ : **In search of an incarnated practice of anthropology : a Poetical Ethnography inspired by the gestures, tools and strategies of Textile Conservation, |
+ | |||
+ | Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics…. | ||
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+ | The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations) | ||
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+ | METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction) | ||
+ | |||
+ | - Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) | ||
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+ | - Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/ | ||
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+ | - Design spaces/ | ||
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+ | |||
+ | [[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] | ||
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+ | PROCESS | ||
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+ | 1. DOCUMENTING the research topic | ||
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+ | Fields of interests : | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Débrouillardise** | ||
+ | |||
+ | | ||
+ | |||
+ | Repertory of | ||
+ | - Governmental decrees / rationing tickets | ||
+ | -civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations | ||
+ | - punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux) | ||
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+ | |||
+ | **Coquetterie** | ||
+ | |||
+ | dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | ** | ||
+ | Resilience** | ||
+ | |||
+ | Moral, social and cultural resilience | ||
+ | |||
+ | serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , | ||
+ | |||
+ | development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’. | ||
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+ | |||
+ | 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives | ||
+ | |||
+ | 1.2. consultation of experts: | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Irène Guenther** | ||
+ | – Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | ivguenth@central.uh.edu | ||
+ | « Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich » | ||
+ | current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Jonathan Walford** | ||
+ | Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011 | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Dominique Veillon** | ||
+ | |||
+ | « La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot. | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | "Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995 | ||
+ | interesting review: http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, | ||
+ | cf ETUDE : | ||
+ | http:// | ||
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+ | Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l' | ||
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+ | side note 1 on 1.1 | ||
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+ | contacted Documentation Centers in Brussels | ||
+ | |||
+ | - Algemeen Rijksarchief: | ||
+ | |||
+ | -Archief en Museum voor het Vlaamse Leven in Brussel (online archive)/ | ||
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+ | - Brussels Museum voor Arbeid en Industrie ‘La Fonderie’ | ||
+ | mainly about the end of the 19th, beginning of the XXth century. There would be a gap in documentation of the second world war period, they start to have a good documentation from the fifties on. Maybe they have info on the industrial inventories. | ||
+ | |||
+ | My research questions : what was the industrial production level of textile material and where was it requisitionned to (Front de l’Est ?) ; what about labour conditions and entering of the women as workers in the factories, how did the work impacted on women dressing (more practical, introduction of the trouser) do they have propaganda material about women work? | ||
+ | |||
+ | -CINEMATEK | ||
+ | access@cinematek.be | ||
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+ | Filmmaterial will be accessible, there are pictures but they are not filed at all so it will be quasy impossible to consult them | ||
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+ | Of interest : belgian film production during occupation, document the dressing in documentary films versus fictions, cinematographic advertisment and actualities. What about the ‘costumières’, | ||
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+ | Interesting reading : « Henri Storck, le cinéma belge et l' | ||
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+ | -MJB Musée Juif de Belgique | ||
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+ | -Koninklijk Museum van het Leger en de Krijgsgeschiedenis | ||
+ | information about the requisitioning of the materials from the army, and more important : how textiles from the army was on its turn used, transformed or costumized for DIY casual clothing. Does the museum has a collection of parachutes from the english? | ||
+ | |||
+ | -Musée National de la Résistance | ||
+ | interesting material : double pockets that were sewen to transport weapons. | ||
+ | The museum does not have examples of it, but can try to put me in contact with people then involved in Resistance who did such a textile practices. | ||
+ | |||
+ | -CEGESOMA, | ||
+ | does have a research center for WW II | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]] | ||
- | Out of my desire to collect stories | + | [[Communities |